Alrighty, day 2 in Vienna… Uber Alles and I got up earlier, and after having some delicious Nespresso, we were on our merry way to Schönbrunn Palace, the former imperial summer residence of the Habsburg monarchs… As usual, the weather was still absolutely miserable, raining the entire way there, and pretty much for the rest of the day until nightfall.
Schönbrunn was absolutely breathtaking. The splendid architecture and the magnificent gardens truly demonstrated why it was one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites. As this was a compact trip, we didn’t go in, but took some pictures outside and in the grounds of the palace.
It was here that I experienced my first authentic Christkindlmarkt, the Austrian Christmas market. There were so many lovely wares on display, and tempting food being sold, along with steaming mugs of cider. I still regret not buying one of those filled doughnut-type pastries…
Oh well, I suppose that gives me yet another reason to go back to Vienna sometime soon.
After walking around the market, and taking notes of stalls to revisit, we decided to get out of the wretched rain, and went into the Schönbrunn kaffeehaus, where I finally got to try genuine apfelstudel, washed down with some soda water and a cup of hot chocolate with whipped cream. Absolute decadence! The crispy filo pastry provided a perfect foil to the rich, yet tart flavour of baked apple, served with creamy, smooth vanilla sauce. Uber Alles stuck with her usual cup of coffee, not wanting to get any dessert. Definitely has more discipline than I do when it comes to sweets! Oh heck, am on holiday, and since have not been eating proper food, I might as well stuff my face with fantastic Viennese desserts.
After strudel, we took some more pictures around the palace before heading to, of course, my favourite part of every sightseeing trip, the GIFT SHOP! I never fail to buy at least one item from every gift shop of places of interest I’ve been to. So, in keeping with tradition, we went to this one. J There, I bought myself a beautiful tapestry square, embroidered with pale blue flowers, and trimmed with baby blue and gold thread. I also found the perfect Christmas present for Cougar. A replica of the star diamond jewellery that Empress Maria used to wear, made from sterling silver and studded with Swarovski crystals. I bought her a beautiful bracelet from the collection. I wanted some variety, since I always got her necklaces…
On the way out, we stopped by the market again, as a stall selling Polish ceramics had caught my eye earlier on. After the stallowner showed me about fifteen variations of the blue painted ceramic trays, I finally decided on one. He must have heaved a sigh of relief that I finally picked one… I’d hate to think he went to all that trouble for nothing. He might have beaned me in the head with one… Heh.
After the trip to the palace, we headed back into town. Our first stop was the Hofburg Palace, housing the Austrian National Library, an awe-inspiring building smack dab in the middle of the city centre. We took some pictures there before heading to the highlight of my entire trip to Vienna, Loden-Plankl, the oldest and most prestigious Loden store in Vienna. I had fallen in love with the Austrian loden jackets the moment I saw them online, and later on in Lanz, on the first day in Vienna. They were gorgeous, especially the collarless jackets that reminded me of Nehru jackets, with chestnut wood buttons. They were prohibitively expensive in Lanz though, so I gave up the idea of owning a loden jacket. But I researched the jackets the moment we got back, which is how I found out about Loden-Plankl, and how they were THE place for loden jackets.
Basically, loden is a thick, water resistant woollen material with a short pile, first produced by peasants from Austria. The fabric is derived from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep and has a traditional bluish-green colour.
To produce Loden fabric, strong yarns are woven loosely into cloth which then undergoes a lengthy process of shrinking, eventually acquiring the texture of felt and becoming quite dense. It is then brushed with a fuller’s teasel and the nap is clipped, a process which is repeated a number of times until the fabric is lightweight, supple, windproof and extremely durable.
So we made our way to Loden-Plankl, which is located on Michaelerplatz, opposite the Hofburg Imperial Palace. It was a gorgeous old, wood-panelled store, filled floor to ceiling with gorgeous loden, cashmere and fur. The staff, of course, greeted us with the usual icy Grüß Gott. But once we got to the menswear department, and asked one of the salesladies for assistance, she was unfailingly obliging.
After being momentarily distracted by a hamster-fur-lined waistcoat, we turned to the task at hand, finding the perfect jacket. Somehow, she managed to find me a gorgeous Loden jacket, collarless, with detailed lapels, in the classic loden hunter green shade, finished with chestnut wood buttons, in my size, and on sale!! It was 50% off, and thus very reasonably priced. I pretended to contemplate it for a few minutes, while trying on some other jackets, but I don’t know who I was kidding. I had fallen in love with that jacket. I don’t know how to describe it, but I’ve never had a piece of clothing that made me feel and look so good. Every time I put it on, I just feel great, and can’t resist the urge to strut about like a male model everywhere. Trust me, that is a very rare feeling for me to get, especially when it comes to clothing.
Anyway, I digress. I got the jacket, a big grin plastered on my face as we left the store, clasping the gold paper bag firmly, adding to the clutch of shopping bags I already held.
After spending quite a bit of time and effort on retail therapy, we decided it was time for yet another coffee break, and we went over to Café Griensteidl to chill out and relax while waiting to meet up with Scheherazade. I ordered a cappuccino, and a butter cream torte, topped with pecans. Uber Alles, of course, had another cup of coffee.
After chilling out for a couple of hours, if I’m not mistaken, Scheherazade was taking her time, so we decided to do more sightseeing. As we headed towards the Museums Quartier, we stopped by the Spanish Riding School, and went into the gift shop just to get a token since I couldn’t go and watch the show. So I got myself a small horse figurine in white porcelain.
Once that was out of the way, we took a few more pictures of the Hofburg Palace from the other façade as we leisurely strolled towards the Museums Quartier.
There was another Christkindlmarkt there with a beautifully decorated Christmas tree. I still didn’t get the delicious looking pastries, having been stuffed with the torte earlier. Darn… We didn’t buy anything there, but just soaked in the festive atmosphere as the last rays of sunlight started to disappear beyond the horizon.
When Scheherazade finally arrived, Uber Alles headed home to run a quick errand before meeting up with me again in the evening. Scheherazade took me up to Mariahilferstrasse, the main shopping street in Vienna. Most of the stores were pretty similar to the high street in London, so I wasn’t tempted to buy anything there. We went into one of the biggest department stores in Vienna, though the name escapes me now, mainly to get out of the rain. But we had a great conversation while milling through the store, checking out the merchandise etc.
Once the rain stopped, we headed back out, and Scheherazade bought a bag of freshly roasted chestnuts which we shared as we walked towards the Universitat Wien, which I have to say, has one of the most impressive university buildings I have ever seen, with exquisite baroque interiors that caused such a pang of envy… I wish my law faculty looked like that!
After visiting the university, we went to the Christkindlmarkt in front of Vienna’s town hall, the Rathaus. (Hee, rat house!) There, I found a cute ginger cat figurine at one of the stalls, adding it to my growing collection. After exploring the market, we stopped, and Scheherazade treated me to a non-alcoholic version of the Christmas cider, Jugenpunsch or something like that. I loved it, especially in the chilly weather, it provided a lovely warming sensation.
We walked back to the city centre, where we met up with Uber Alles at the Swarovski store near Stephansplatz, and I got myself a crystal Swarovski cat figurine. Cost a pretty penny, but it was absolutely gorgeous, and I had to add it to the collection.
After saying our goodbyes to Scheherazade, Uber Alles and I finally got to the Musikverein (on the right night this time!) and had an amazing time at the concert. The music, coupled with the grandeur of the Golden Hall, and the superior acoustics, made it a night to remember…
The following day, I left for London, filled with memories of what I can truly say to be one of the my most cherished holidays in quite a while. Thanks to Uber Alles and Scheherazade, who made my stay even more memorable.
xoxo,
gildedyouth
Posted in Confessions of a Shopaholic Fashionate, General Gabber
Tags: Christkindlmarkt, loden, Schonnbrunn, strudel, tortes, Vienna